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-   -   How to: Remove a 3800 Series II motor (https://www.v6f-body.com/showthread.php?t=3318)

xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:36 AM

How to: Remove a 3800 Series II motor
This is a “How To” for removing a 3800 series II motor from a 96 Camaro (5 speed manual)

Notes: I’m leaving the A/C compressor in the car to save the coolant. Also I highly suggest Bagging and Tagging (Ziploc Bags) each set of bolts with a label of the part of the car that it belongs to. This will help jog your memory when its time to reinstall. First and foremost be safe and take your time. I would recommend reading through this “How To” once or twice to get familiar with what need to be done. You will need hard flat area (preferably concrete) to work and you need plenty of room in front of you car to move some of the equipment around. Also, There are a few special tools you will need which I have listed here.

Special Tools needed

-Engine Hoist (aka Cherry Picker)

-Jack Stands (sturdy ones) (I picked up some at Lowes for 25 dollars)

-Platforms for jack stands (this is to set your car on high enough to remove the motor after you’ve raised it, Mine are 10 layers of 2x4 and a 2x10 on top) (they have been very useful for other things… as you can see LOL)

-Floor Jack (this will come in handy)

-Flat dolly (for moving the motor/k-member on when uninstalled k-member) (I purchased a wooded dolly from Harbor freight for 15 bucks. This will work fine but it needs some reinforcement to hold this kind of weight…. It says a 1000 lbs but don’t trust that it will hold the entire time…..mine broke while putting the motor back in. I had to rebuild it using 2x4’s and it held great.)


-Fuel Line Disconnect Tool


-t-50 Torx Bit (For Driver side shock tower)

-Couple of junk tires on the rim (inflated, 4-6” in wide works nicely)

-10ft+ Chain (heavy enough to lift the car)

Before starting:

-Make your tool check list.

-Remove Battery

Drain fluids:



-Oil (optional)


-Transmission (optional, but recommended to save the mess)


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:38 AM


1.) Disconnect Alternator wire


2.) Inside Car, Passenger side, Remove kick panel. = Remove (4) Phillips screws along the inside of the door.


3.) Under the dash, behind the kick panel, Disconnect 3 connectors (These will be pulled through the fire wall later)


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:41 AM

4.) Remove Shift Knob and Center Console= Remove (3) 10mm bolts (Manual Only)


5.) Remove Shifter Boot= Remove (7) 3/8” screws (Manual Only)


6.) Disconnect MAF sensor, Air Filter Box and Resonator= Remove plastic clips and loosen clamps to remove.


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:43 AM

7.) Remove Battery Tray/Coolant Reservoir= Remove (2) 1/2” bolts.


8.) Disconnect Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Cable (if present) =Use flat screw driver to unclip the cable from the bracket and it should slide off. Disconnect cable from the Throttle by sliding the ball out the side.


9.) Disconnect Heater hoses. Slide white cap off the clips. Carefully pry clips off heater bypass bracket. These clips break very easily. If you do break one, I would use a hose clamp to tighten around the clip to make sure it holds. Or if a hose clamp will not work you can use these fittings (on the bottom, made by V6fixit.com) that replace the factory heater hose with these that use standard 5/8” and ¾” heater hose.



xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:46 AM

10.) Disconnect (2) Radiator Hoses, Upper and Lower= Use pliers (channel lock pliers work great) to grab and open clamp on the end of the hose and slide it back. Sometimes they it hard to break the hose free use the pliers and twist the hose a little and pull it off with your hand.


11.) Disconnect (2) Fuel Lines and (1) EVAP Line= Use Fuel Line Tool to disconnect Fuel Lines. Pull rubber sleeve back and insert tool. Line should slide off. EVAP line, rubber hose joining the line should pull off. Place line over driver side of car to let excess fuel run out.


12.) At this point, It is best to set the rear tires on the junk rims you found. Set the rear tires centered on the rim of the junk tires. This will provide a safe support when lifting and lowering the car.


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:47 AM

13.) Raise the front of the car and set it on jack stands. This will give you plenty of room to move under the car. Be sure that all points are secure and sturdy. You do not want to chance the possibility of an accident.


14.) Remove Belt= Use a 15mm on the idler pulley. pull back to release tension on the belt. Then remove.


15.) I’m leaving the A/C Compressor in the car to save the coolant for the air conditioner. -- Remove A/C compressor= Remove (3) ½” bolts from the front of the compressor. Remove ½” nut from the rear bolt that mounts the compressor. This nut holds the ground. Move the ground wire and remove 15mm bolt (use a deep well 15 mm socket) holding the rear of the compressor. This area is very tight. You can reach it from the bottom with a open end wrench as well. This was by far the hardest part of the removal, IMO. Disconnect connector and Slide compressor out. Then secure it next to the radiator to keep it out of your way. (When reinstalling don’t forget the battery ground)


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:49 AM

16.) Disconnect Steering Shaft=Remove plastic cover. Remove 7/16” bolt. Slide off steering shaft. (During the reinstall line up the flat side of shaft to the flat sides of the post.)


17.) Disconnect Brake Booster Hose=Pull barbed nipple out of brake booster


18.) Unbolt Master cylinder= Remove (2) 15mm Nuts. Slide master cylinder off and move it above the Cowl.


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:50 AM

19.) Unbolt Shock Towers=Remove (2) ½” bolts and (2) 15mm bolts/nuts from each Shock Tower. Note: the Drivers side Shock Tower Uses (2)t-50 Torx Bolts.


20.) Move master cylinder back to relieve any tension in the brake lines. Leave unbolted.

21.) Disconnect front brake lines=unbolt 12mm nut slide line out of Brake Control Unit. The lines are marked with a LF RF LR RR on the plastic cover below the lines. Note: to move to line towards the engine you may need to unbolt the Rear line(s) as well (14mm)


22.) On the inside of the drivers side fender well, there is a Brake Line Heat Shield. Remove Heat Shield= Remove (3) 10mm Bolts/Nuts. I found its easier to pull the heat shield towards the front, but its still a little tricky


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:51 AM

23.) On passenger side next to firewall, Disconnect 2 PCM Connectors= unbolt (2) 7mm bolts in the center of the connectors.


24.) Along the passenger side fender, over wheel, disconnect (2) connectors.


25.) Remove PCM= Remove (2) 10mm Bolts.


xpbr2000 04-15-2011 01:53 AM

26.) Under the PCM was a harness running into the Firewall. Pull harness out of firewall. Three connectors that we disconnected will need to be pulled out.


27.) Follow PCM harness towards engine. Disconnect vacuum line and A/C Pressure switch.


28.) Unclip the harness and move it on top of the motor. Make sure nothing is still connected to the body of the car.


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