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Old 04-15-2011, 01:36 AM
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Default How to: Remove a 3800 Series II motor

This is a “How To” for removing a 3800 series II motor from a 96 Camaro (5 speed manual)

Notes: I’m leaving the A/C compressor in the car to save the coolant. Also I highly suggest Bagging and Tagging (Ziploc Bags) each set of bolts with a label of the part of the car that it belongs to. This will help jog your memory when its time to reinstall. First and foremost be safe and take your time. I would recommend reading through this “How To” once or twice to get familiar with what need to be done. You will need hard flat area (preferably concrete) to work and you need plenty of room in front of you car to move some of the equipment around. Also, There are a few special tools you will need which I have listed here.

Special Tools needed

-Engine Hoist (aka Cherry Picker)

-Jack Stands (sturdy ones) (I picked up some at Lowes for 25 dollars)

-Platforms for jack stands (this is to set your car on high enough to remove the motor after you’ve raised it, Mine are 10 layers of 2x4 and a 2x10 on top) (they have been very useful for other things… as you can see LOL)


-Floor Jack (this will come in handy)

-Flat dolly (for moving the motor/k-member on when uninstalled k-member) (I purchased a wooded dolly from Harbor freight for 15 bucks. This will work fine but it needs some reinforcement to hold this kind of weight…. It says a 1000 lbs but don’t trust that it will hold the entire time…..mine broke while putting the motor back in. I had to rebuild it using 2x4’s and it held great.)



-Fuel Line Disconnect Tool



-t-50 Torx Bit (For Driver side shock tower)

-Couple of junk tires on the rim (inflated, 4-6” in wide works nicely)

-10ft+ Chain (heavy enough to lift the car)

Before starting:

-Make your tool check list.

-Remove Battery

Drain fluids:

-Radiator



-Oil (optional)



-Transmission (optional, but recommended to save the mess)

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Dyno'd @ 213 RWHP (NA)
"OperationX"

Last edited by xpbr2000; 10-17-2017 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:38 AM
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Start!

1.) Disconnect Alternator wire



2.) Inside Car, Passenger side, Remove kick panel. = Remove (4) Phillips screws along the inside of the door.



3.) Under the dash, behind the kick panel, Disconnect 3 connectors (These will be pulled through the fire wall later)

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"OperationX"

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:41 AM
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4.) Remove Shift Knob and Center Console= Remove (3) 10mm bolts (Manual Only)



5.) Remove Shifter Boot= Remove (7) 3/8” screws (Manual Only)



6.) Disconnect MAF sensor, Air Filter Box and Resonator= Remove plastic clips and loosen clamps to remove.

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:43 AM
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7.) Remove Battery Tray/Coolant Reservoir= Remove (2) 1/2” bolts.



8.) Disconnect Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Cable (if present) =Use flat screw driver to unclip the cable from the bracket and it should slide off. Disconnect cable from the Throttle by sliding the ball out the side.



9.) Disconnect Heater hoses. Slide white cap off the clips. Carefully pry clips off heater bypass bracket. These clips break very easily. If you do break one, I would use a hose clamp to tighten around the clip to make sure it holds. Or if a hose clamp will not work you can use these fittings (on the bottom, made by V6fixit.com) that replace the factory heater hose with these that use standard 5/8” and ¾” heater hose.



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"OperationX"

Last edited by xpbr2000; 10-17-2017 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:46 AM
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10.) Disconnect (2) Radiator Hoses, Upper and Lower= Use pliers (channel lock pliers work great) to grab and open clamp on the end of the hose and slide it back. Sometimes they it hard to break the hose free use the pliers and twist the hose a little and pull it off with your hand.



11.) Disconnect (2) Fuel Lines and (1) EVAP Line= Use Fuel Line Tool to disconnect Fuel Lines. Pull rubber sleeve back and insert tool. Line should slide off. EVAP line, rubber hose joining the line should pull off. Place line over driver side of car to let excess fuel run out.



12.) At this point, It is best to set the rear tires on the junk rims you found. Set the rear tires centered on the rim of the junk tires. This will provide a safe support when lifting and lowering the car.

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"OperationX"

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:47 AM
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13.) Raise the front of the car and set it on jack stands. This will give you plenty of room to move under the car. Be sure that all points are secure and sturdy. You do not want to chance the possibility of an accident.



14.) Remove Belt= Use a 15mm on the idler pulley. pull back to release tension on the belt. Then remove.



15.) I’m leaving the A/C Compressor in the car to save the coolant for the air conditioner. -- Remove A/C compressor= Remove (3) ½” bolts from the front of the compressor. Remove ½” nut from the rear bolt that mounts the compressor. This nut holds the ground. Move the ground wire and remove 15mm bolt (use a deep well 15 mm socket) holding the rear of the compressor. This area is very tight. You can reach it from the bottom with a open end wrench as well. This was by far the hardest part of the removal, IMO. Disconnect connector and Slide compressor out. Then secure it next to the radiator to keep it out of your way. (When reinstalling don’t forget the battery ground)

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"OperationX"

Last edited by xpbr2000; 10-17-2017 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:49 AM
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16.) Disconnect Steering Shaft=Remove plastic cover. Remove 7/16” bolt. Slide off steering shaft. (During the reinstall line up the flat side of shaft to the flat sides of the post.)



17.) Disconnect Brake Booster Hose=Pull barbed nipple out of brake booster



18.) Unbolt Master cylinder= Remove (2) 15mm Nuts. Slide master cylinder off and move it above the Cowl.

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Last edited by xpbr2000; 10-17-2017 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:44 AM
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This is pretty a good write up, only thing missing is that for the auto cars you have to disconnect the trans cooler lines. Question though, why did you remove the overflow bottle?
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.8blackmaro View Post
This is pretty a good write up, only thing missing is that for the auto cars you have to disconnect the trans cooler lines. Question though, why did you remove the overflow bottle?
I don't have an auto so there is only what I picked up from other write ups. I'll be glad to add it if you can find me some pics.

As for the Overflow bottle, if you are picking it up with the hoist you'll need to wrap the chain around the sub frame. So the bottle must be removed. However, if your using a lift, this step may be pointless. I would disconnect the line to the radiator just to have all the room you can get to reach the A/C compressor. its a PITA.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:30 PM
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Ah ok, I think I have some pics for you. When I did it we just jacked up the body, we never touched the overflow bottle. Turns out no pics of it, but its just 2 lines on the radiator.
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Last edited by 3.8blackmaro; 04-15-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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