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  #111  
Old 03-21-2016, 02:20 PM
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you need to look at tool rentals at some parts houses. they are free. you get back all the money you rent it for.

as for antiseize a little bit probably wont hurt anything. you can wipe off the access when you install it. filing off the edge of the inside it probably a good idea the cutting tool probably leaves flashing on the edges of the parts. it will help to get a nice tight fit. You aren't filing the inside to change the size just to knock off some material that get raised in the cutting process. use light pressure and look for raised areas. you can feel them with your fingers usually. definitely lube up the inside of the sprockets so that they slide on easy.
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  #112  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:22 PM
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You can trying putting the stock sprocket on to and using that to tap it on with a, mallet. I was lucky, mine slid right on with no tools

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  #113  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:23 AM
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You can trying putting the stock sprocket on to and using that to tap it on with a, mallet. I was lucky, mine slid right on with no tools

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The problem is that I can only get the very edge of the new sprocket on before it gets stuck. Filing the sprocket will probably be the only way to get it on far enough to tap it with a hammer, or use the stock sprocket. Will probably get grabbing a file from the tool shop tonight to get started on that.
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  #114  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:34 AM
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I think filing it will help. good luck. I'm glad youre working out these issues so when I run a double I'll already know this ahead of time
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  #115  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:09 AM
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I used a Dremel to clean up the edges of the sprocket, hoping that it would slide on a bit easier, but that did not help. From there, I used the dremel on the inside of the sprocket, and after grinding away a good amount of metal, the damn thing still won't fit! I am hesitant to take much more metal away from the sprocket because it is looking like the grind is starting to become uneven. So I am thinking that I might that the dremel to the crankshaft where the sprocket slides on, although I don't know if that will create any issues with the harmonic balancer when I put it back on.
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  #116  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:47 AM
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dont mod the crank. just the spocket. because it doesn't use a tensioner they will be tight. slide each gear on individually so you know it will slide on easily. also check your keys on both and make sure you have them lined up perfect.
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  #117  
Old 03-24-2016, 12:20 PM
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dont mod the crank. just the spocket. because it doesn't use a tensioner they will be tight. slide each gear on individually so you know it will slide on easily. also check your keys on both and make sure you have them lined up perfect.
Yeah, the cam sprocket, and the keyway (I don't know what to call it) that slides in front of the crankshaft sprocket both go on nice and easy. It's just that damn crankshaft sprocket that is the problem. There is no way that it is just Flash from the casting. I have ground far past that point with the Dremel. Direct Fit my ass. I am just hoping beyond hope that the other parts I have aren't a pain to install.

BTW, I keep forgetting to ask about this... What is Cam Degreeing, and is it something that I have to do with this build?
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  #118  
Old 03-24-2016, 12:33 PM
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I got a question the crank sprocket has to go on first doesn't it?
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Last edited by xpbr2000; 03-24-2016 at 12:35 PM.
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  #119  
Old 03-24-2016, 12:35 PM
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Cam degreeing would be where you deliberately change the degree of the cam in relation to the crank. mine are not changed from stock.
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  #120  
Old 03-24-2016, 12:39 PM
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I got a question the crank sprocket has to go on first doesn't it?
Yeah, the crank sprocket is the first piece that needs to go on. They other pieces I had put on just to test them to see if there would be any issues with them.
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