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  #11  
Old 04-15-2011, 01:54 AM
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29.) Remove Front Wheels

30.) Disconnect Wheel Speed Sensors=Start behind wheel hub, find the White connector. Follow the harness up to inside of fender well and disconnect the harness from the body.



31.) Remove Starter Shield= Requires 10mm (bottom), ˝” (middle), 13mm (top) sockets.



32.) Disconnect Starter Wire= Remove ˝” nut. Replace nut when done.

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  #12  
Old 04-15-2011, 01:56 AM
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33.) Unbolt starter harness clip/ground wire= remove ˝” nut located under motor mount. Replace nut when done.



34.) Take Starter wire and tuck it behind the fan harness behind radiator. This is to keep it out of the way.

35.) For manual transmission, disconnect the Clutch Hydraulic Line. Press white collar on the line into the connector to release the line and pull in out.

Note:For Automatic, disconnect the shifter selector cable and unbolt (2 x13mm bolts) it from the transmission

(manual shown)

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  #13  
Old 04-15-2011, 01:57 AM
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36.) Disconnect Sway Bar from Frame= Remove (4) ˝” bolts.



37.) Disconnect (2) O2 sensor connectors. One is before the Catalytic Converter and the other is after it



38.) Remove Y-pipe= remove (4) 15mm bolts. Note: Be Very careful you can easily break these bolts. Especially is they are stock. Then you got to figure out how to get the broken piece out. I broke (2). These are M8 X 1.25 bolts (stock).

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:58 AM
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39.) Remove Exhaust Support= Remove (2) 15mm bolts. Located between Catalytic Converter and the Rear O2 sensor.



40.) Disconnect Drive Shafter Support (if you still have one)= Remove (2) 15mm bolts. This is for Stock “2” piece Drive shafts only. The Drive Shaft will want to drop. Lower slowly to avoid problems/injuries.



41.) Remove Drive Shaft= Remove (4) 11mm Bolts. Pull Drive Shaft out of Universal Joint. Lightly pry on universal joint to separate Drive shaft from the rear end. Be careful, the Caps can fall off and you’ll have a bunch of Needle Bearings to find. Pull drive shaft out of transmission. Transmission fluid may run out the end of the transmission.

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:59 AM
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42.) Separate Torque Arm from Transmission= Remove 15mm Bolt. Remove Bracket clamping the Torque Arm. Note: The Torque Arm is under some pressure and will probably want to rise up. Pull down on the arm until it is loose from the transmission. Gently let the arm rise.



43.) Double Check to insure that there are no harnesses or brackets still connecting the engine/transmission to the body/frame of the car.

44.) Pull the steering Pump Reservoir off its bracket. Just pull it up. The hoses should give you enough slack. Make sure to untangle the hoses and Tuck it to the motor so that it will not hang when raising the car.



45.) Position your flat dolly under K-member and transmission

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Old 04-15-2011, 02:01 AM
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46.) Unbolt transmission support= use floor jack to support transmission. Remove (4) 15mm bolts. Slowly let the lower the floor jack until the transmission is support by the motor or the dolly.



47.) Attach your chain around the sub frame on each side securely. Then move your engine hoist in position and attach your chain.



48.) Do another once over to check that nothing is still connected to the car. Any loose cables, lines, Etc. are tucked close to the motor.

49.) Check your Dolly to make sure it still where you want it.

50.) Begin raising the car until the weight is off of the Jack stands. Check your chain and the rear tires. This is where you want to pay attention. Double check everything, practice safety.
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2011, 02:03 AM
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51.) Remove Jack Stands. Check dolly position. Lower car until the K-member is resting on the dolly. Do not allow the entire weight of the car to sit on the dolly keep the chain tight.



52.) When the K-member and transmission are resting on your dolly, unbolt K-member= Remove (6) 18mm bolts. (When reinstalling use locator pin on k-member to line up k-member to the frame. And bolt shock towers in place at the same time. It saves time later)



53.) At this point the engine/transmission are loose from the body. Now time to raise the car. Check your clearance on each side of the motor.

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  #18  
Old 04-15-2011, 02:05 AM
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54.) Use hoist and raise car checking as you go not to get lines or cables tangled. Raise car until the top of the engine can clear the body coming forward. Watch the rear tires as well. The shock tower will want to fall outwards. I suggest having someone there to ease them to keep from tearing brake line. (When reinstalling, be sure to line up the shock towers in their holes.)



55.) Place your Platforms at the same points that the jack stands were at. Place your jack stands on your platforms and check the position to support the car. This needs to but done right. You may need to raise the car a little to get your jack stands in place.



56.) Lower car until the car is supported by the jack stands. Check your setup to be sure it are safe. Then unhook chain and remove the hoist.

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  #19  
Old 04-15-2011, 02:07 AM
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57.) Now for some grunt work, move K-member/engine/transmission forward making sure to clear the car.



58.) Now hook your hoist back up and raise the car. Remove your jack stands and lower your car down on the platforms. Now your car is safe to work around.




…And You’re Done!!



To reinstall, just follow steps backwards. Don’t forget to top off fluids and bleed your brake/clutch lines.
I’ve also borrowed some torque spec from some others How to guides below. Thanks for all your information.

Brake Master Cylinder Nut= 21 lb/ft
Shock Tower Nut= 32 lb/ft
Shock Tower Bolts= 37 lb/ft
Sway Bar Bolts= 41 lb/ft
Drive Shaft bolts= 16 lb/ft
Steering Shaft Bolts= 35 lb/ft
K-Member Bolts= 92 lb/ft
Transmission Support Bolts= 66 lb/ft
Brake Lines= 11 lb/ft
Lug Nuts= 100 lb/ft
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Last edited by xpbr2000; 10-17-2017 at 05:45 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2011, 07:44 AM
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This is pretty a good write up, only thing missing is that for the auto cars you have to disconnect the trans cooler lines. Question though, why did you remove the overflow bottle?
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